Republic of G | Petite Sewing & Fashion

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Pattern Making Must-Haves

Before you even attempt your first pattern, here are the most essential tools every sewing beginner needs in their arsenal (did I really just say arsenal?)! Follow me on Instagram for more sewing tips and patternmaking tricks!

*All of the definitions you read below are credited to the book, Pattern Making Made Simple by Rucht D’Oleo Schwartz, Fashion Designer and Founder of the Fashion Institute of South Florida.

  1. THE BIBLE OF PATTERNMAKING BOOKS

Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong

2. AN AWL

An Awl is used to open small holes on the pattern to indicate the vanishing point of the darts, pockets, trims, bottom, buttonholes and other placements

3. PATTERN HOOKS

Used to hang the patterns and slopers on a bar. This keeps the patterns flat and clean since you never want to fold them!

4. NOTCHER

Used to cute 1/4” in the edge of a pattern to help match the pieces together. Also used to mark seam allowances, to identify the front and back of the patterns, center lines, join seams, dart legs, etc.

5. RULERS

The three rulers I initially bought as a beginner was a Tape Measurer, a French Curve Ruler, a Hip Curve Ruler and a See-Through or Transparent Ruler 18”x2”. A French Curve is used to shape armholes and necklines and to blend curves. A Hip Curve Ruler is used to shape hips, lapels, hems and blend curves. What I still need to purchase is an L Ruler which is essential when drafting patterns because you will always see terms like “square the line” and this ruler will just make your life a lot easier.

6. POINTED TRACING WHEEL

Used to transfer pattern shapes and lines to paper and to shape the dart intakes.

7. PATTERN PAPER

Lightweight paper (similar to tracing paper) for drafting patterns. It can be blank or come with a grid of letters, symbols or numbers.

8. OAK TAG OR TAGBOARD PAPER

Heavyweight or cardboard paper with two colors, to mimic the correct and wrong side of the fabrics. Used to transfer patterns after it has been tested and approved to then become production patterns. This type of paper is more durable than pattern paper and will be easier to trace for changes and manipulations.

Lastly, don’t forget the basics!

PAPER SCISSORS

MECHANICAL PENCIL

ERASER

PERMANENT MARKER

TAPE

All of these tools are available on my Amazon Storefront (where I will receive a small commission on every purchase made) along with many more items that I use for sewing, pattern drafting, taking content and design!